история стиля модерн в одеждеThe evolution of fashion has always been inextricably linked to changes in society of a particular era. History of art Nouveau in dress reflects the main trends in the social life on both sides of the Atlantic, including a gradual change of position of women in society and opening for them prospects at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. Like any other boundary of centuries, it was interesting, eventful. It was interrupted by the First world war, after which was the beginning of another era – such as significant and crucial.


The Belle Epoque – new realism

The first half of the 19th century was given the romanticism that bright way reflected in art and clothes. Romantic ideals were glorified in the women’s locker room curvaceous, multi-layered skirts, deep neckline and waist, tight tight corset. All the ladies in the way it was meant to emphasize a dreamy fragility, which was well seen in the literature and painting, depicting the heavy folds voluminous skirts rustling luxury shining satin and crispy lace edgings on secular parties.

From the middle of the century is rapidly changing political situation in Europe, which inevitably affects continue throughout life. Scientific and technical progress is gaining momentum, reviewed the status of women in society, and after the return of the Olympic Games developing the sport. All this diamantaire age and her costumes, bringing them to reality. The woman becomes easier to breathe in all senses of the word.

The period 1890-1914 was named Belle Epoque (the”Belle Epoque” or “Great epoch”), and art and fashion he was to use the terms “modern” and “art Nouveau”. These names fully reflect the new direction connected with the beginning of the great updates in culture with a gradual rejection of romantic ideals and closer to reality with the indispensable practical costume.


Hindsight and ethnic motifs

It would be a mistake to assert that the style of art Nouveau in dress marked a step forward and porywnanie with all the traditions of the past. Art Nouveau was a skillful and harmonious interweaving of the past and the future: it combines the features of ethnic and antiquity, they assimilated the new elements that best met the requirements of the time.

French couturier Paul Poiret was a new fashion reformer who insisted on the release of lady’s mill from suffocating corset and change of the hard frame skirts on dresses and skirts softer cut with flowing fabrics and free lines.

In addition to antique fashion Poiret was introduced in Europe, particularly in France, features of national Japanese costume, which surprisingly harmoniously fit in European dress. So in the Western costume beginning to take root kimono, which found a use in the home clothes, and in secular dress. “Lame skirt” (hobble skirt) – the invention Poiret and another bow ethnic fashion East. This skirt is contrasted with the romantic lush skirt bell, close to the body up to the ankle and did not allow to make the wide steps, condemning women on a fine mincing gait. Gradually disappears volume of arms, which more and more attached to his hand, refusing lush romantic lanterns.


Underwear, homewear and bathing suits

In the era of modern increasing attention is drawn not only to how a woman looks at social dances in the salons. The development of sport, expansion of the assortment of clothes and home gradual refusal from the corset and petticoats installed the new realities. Lower clothing is divided into two parts and gradually appear familiar bra and panties, which had earlier replaced the corset, long trousers , and a petticoat. For the members of the upper classes underwear becomes a luxury.

Trendy designer, who along with Paul Poiret attract female attention to home clothes, insist that the ladies becoming to look like “a brand not only in the light, but also at home. So, the demand for functionality casual dress, which gradually goes out.


Practicality and activity – new women’s realities

In the era of modern Europe, particularly the UK, has faced a wave suffrage movement demands to grant suffrage to women. Sufragette that oppose discrimination against women, the brightest image showed a departure from tradition, and even from new canons of appeal, teach French couturier. In parallel with pampered ladies in fancy hats and dresses with rustling narrow heavy skirts, decorated with ribbons and artificial flowers, there is another way that is incompatible with languid evenings in the salons. Sufragette wear simple gowns and suits smooth cut without a hint of feminine decor – their outfits are more like men’s apparel her dark colours and the desire to repeat images jackets.

In feminissima countries casual clothing for women is becoming more practical. It consists of a blouse, jacket and long skirts to the ankles, in which no previous bustle that erases adopted in this age of the S-shaped silhouette. This style is called the “Gibson girl” on behalf of the English artist that sang in his paintings, the image of a young lady.

The epoch of art Nouveau in dress stopped with the beginning of the First world war in 1914. The impact of her features were reviewed several years, while changing it finally came decadence and Hollywood glamour, restoring the traditions of fashionable luxury with the desire for the decorative style.

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